
Greetings, Everyone! Weโve just returned from Maine where we spent eight days in and around Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island (MDI). Almost every single one of those days was postcard-perfect weather, which we decided to accept as the universe evening the score for 2020 in general. Since we were coming from New York, which has a โsimilar or better coronavirus experienceโ than Maine, we werenโt required to self-quarantine, and other than maybe one popular trail where mask-wearing was far from exemplary, it felt safe. As usual, we followed a pretty predictable script every day: Light breakfast at home; Drive to Acadia National Park (we were in a vrbo outside the park, in a small town called Hancock) for a long hike or walk; Eat a big outdoor lunch on the later side at a lobster pound or seafood shack; Return home by way of farm market shopping; and lastly, a cocktail and super easy, fresh dinner at home. Unlike my typical vacation round-ups, Iโve decided to focus on Where We Ate, which I figured youโd like to hear about first. Later, Iโll report on how we cookedโฆ.

NOTE: Be sure to check on each restaurantโs hours before you head out. Many are closed from Monday through Wednesday.
Abelโs Lobster
Mount Desert
We found Abelโs from a page in the Eventide cookbook listing the authorsโ favorite classic New England seafood shacks. By now you know how I feel about Eventide, so I figured this was a good lead. Because of COVID, there was only outdoor seating on picnic tables, but with string lights and charming views of the harbor, I canโt imagine that seating could be improved upon. It was our first lobster roll in Maine and delivered on every count โ the roll was toasty, but not too bready or buttery, the extremely generous lobster filling was tossed lightly with a chive-mayo. (See opening photo.) Chased down with Maine Root blueberry sodas, it was an A+ way to kick off vacation. (And the crab roll above, was pretty nice, too.) Two things you should know: 1) Even though this was the best roll I ate (tied for first actually), it was also the priciest 2) The lines can be long and the service can be slow.

Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound
Trenton (just outside MDI)
True story: In search of a place to eat for lunch one day, I requested advice on an instagram story. Only a few minutes later, my friend Sonya sent me Martha Stewartโs most recent post from MDI singing the praises of Trenton Bridge. (Her famous Skylands summer home is in the area.) The lobster roll was solid here (not nearly as good as Abelโs or C-Ray), but the oysters were some of the best weโve had.

Peter Troutโs Tavern and Inn
Southwest Harbor
With its weathered shingles, picnic tables, and view of the harbor, Peter Troutโs looks like most no-frills Maine eating. The menu, though, is another story. Yes, they have the obligatory lobster roll and fried fish fare but they are on the โhouse bunโ made with โhouse aioliโโฆ

โฆand they also serve, get thisโฆan heirloom tomato sandwich! A burger! A โsimple arugula salad!โ Even if you donโt order any of these things, itโs nice to know you have another option. (And maybe thereโs someone in your travel party whoโd appreciate a nod to them?) Note 1: We didnโt have trouble getting a table on the day we went for lunch, but itโs very limited space (no indoor dining right now because of COVID) so call ahead to assess the wait. Note 2: The T-shirts they sell are awesome.
Bealโs Lobster Pier
Southwest Harbor
Full disclosure: I never actually ate at Bealโs, but it was on the Eventide List, as well as many many others, so I feel obligated to recommend it here. (We actually tried to go, but we showed up at prime lunch hours one day and the line was prohibitively slow and long. Other people can tell me if that is typical.) Itโs been there almost a hundred years old, and lobstermen unload their catches right on the restaurantโs back pier.

Charlottes Legendary Lobster Pound
Southwest Harbor
When we were driving up to Charlotteโs, my 16-year-old said, โOh yessss. This is exactly what I want right now.โ You know what she means, right? Look at that storefront. I went off-roading with a fried clam roll, which was, of course good (how could it not be?) but the sandwich wasnโt my top pick of the week. This would be a great place for young kids: Thereโs a huge menu, lots of space for kids to run around (socially distanced) while you wait for food.

Thrive & Coffee Matterย
Bar Harbor
As much as we wouldโve liked to, we couldnโt eat lobster rolls and fried seafood for every meal out. Thrive, on a quiet side street in Bar Harbor, was good for those days. They serve what my daughters would call healthy-queen fare: salads, smoothies, a killer avocado toast, and aรงaรญ bowls. They also share a take-out window with Coffee Matter so you can get your latte fix at the same time. We went here after watching a 5:25 sunrise at Cadillac Mountain and then back a few days later for a mid-morning smoothie. (Photo credit: Thrive.)

C-Ray Lobster
Bar Harbor
By Day 7, youโd think that weโd get sick of lumps of seafood stuffed into buttery rolls. By sheer luck, though, our last lobster roll on MDI was our best lobster roll (or at least tied for first with Abelโs). Not quite as packed as an Abel roll, but the right ratio of meat to bread if you didnโt want to collapse into a post-lunch food coma. The menu was almost fine art in its breakdown: Cooked Seafood, Chowder, Sandwiches, Lobster Bakes. Under each category, three or four things, everything youโd want, nothing more nothing less.
P.S. Abby just read this post and said I should add the following statement: โIf you can only eat one lobster roll this week, make it from C Rays. If you can have two, go to Abelโs.โ
Planning to go to Acadia with my husband for our Baby Moon next month. Would love to know which VRBO you stayed in and if you liked it!
So sorry you didnโt get to Thurstonโs, which is our go-to when weโre on MDI. Great food, fabulous view.
Absolutely LOVE MDI. Next time youโve got to try Thurstonโs lobster pound and Little Notch bakery. Best cinnamon buns in the world!
I anxiously await your return to posting about this trip and telling us how you cooked and where you hiked. All of covid lockdown my husband and I have dreamed of a time when we can safely travel again and take our boys to Maine. So I very much look forward to you finishing this series of posts! Please and thank you. ๐
Jenny! Coming from New York, you canโt be blamed! But you need to learn from New Englanders โwhereโ to get the ULTIMATE โBESTโ LOBSTER ROLLS!!!!(NOT at Acadia/Mount Desert!
Instead, on your way there or returning, (you HAVE to get off I-95 and onto ME State Rte 1 in โdowntownโs WISCASSET,MAINE!!!!!)
Google and check out :
โREDโS EATSโ !!!!!!
(Looks like a hot dog stand!!!) Long wait and expensive!!!!(under $20.00)
BUT ABSOLUTELY THE ULTIMATE MAINE LOBSTER ROLL!!!!!!!! ( AT LEAST the meat of 1 1/4 lobsters in each roll!!!! So much meat you CANNOT SEE THE ROLL!!!!![Ask first a knife and fork!!!]
Either mayo or drawn butter!!! Note: take orders from family and friends and bring an empty cooler with ice!!!!!
For fine dining, you should have gone to Copeta in Northeast Harbor! Itโs small but the food is fabulous. And they do have lobster on the menu, along with many Mediterranean dishes!